Chapter 1

CHAPTER 1. JONATHAN HARKER'S JOURNAL

3 May. Bistritz.-- Left Munich at 8:35 P.M., on 1st May, arriving at Vienna early next morning; should have arrived at 6:46, but train was an hour late. Buda-Pesth seems a wonderful place, from the glimpse which I got of it from the train and the little I could walk through the streets. I feared to go very far from the station, as we had arrived late and would start as near the correct time as possible.

The impression I had was that we were leaving the West and entering the East; the most western of splendid bridges over the Danube, which is here of noble width and depth, took us among the traditions of Turkish rule.

We left in pretty good time, and came after nightfall to Klausenburgh. Here I stopped for the night at the Hotel Royale. I had for dinner, or rather supper, a chicken done up some way with red pepper, which was very good but thirsty. (Mem. get recipe for Mina.) I asked the waiter, and he said it was called "paprika hendl," and that, as it was a national dish, I should be able to get it anywhere along the Carpathians.

I found my smattering of German very useful here, indeed, I don't know how I should be able to get on without it.

Having had some time at my disposal when in London, I had visited the British Museum, and made search among the books and maps in the library regarding Transylvania; it had struck me that some foreknowledge of the country could hardly fail to have some importance in dealing with a nobleman of that country.

I find that the district he named is in the extreme east of the country, just on the borders of three states, Transylvania, Moldavia, and Bukovina, in the midst of the Carpathian mountains; one of the wildest and least known portions of Europe.

I was not able to light on any map or work giving the exact locality of the Castle Dracula, as there are no maps of this country as yet to compare with our own Ordance Survey Maps; but I found that Bistritz, the post town named by Count Dracula, is a fairly well-known place. I shall enter here some of my notes, as they may refresh my memory when I talk over my travels with Mina.

In the population of Transylvania there are four distinct nationalities: Saxons in the South, and mixed with them the Wallachs, who are the descendants of the Dacians; Magyars in the West, and Szekelys in the East and North. I am going among the latter, who claim to be descended from Attila and the Huns. This may be so, for when the Magyars conquered the country in the eleventh century they found the Huns settled in it.

I read that every known superstition in the world is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool; if so my stay may be very interesting. (Mem., I must ask the Count all about them.)

I did not sleep well, though my bed was comfortable enough, for I had all sorts of queer dreams. There was a dog howling all night under my window, which may have had something to do with it; or it may have been the paprika, for I had to drink up all the water in my carafe, and was still thirsty. Towards morning I slept and was wakened by the continuous knocking at my door, so I guess I must have been sleeping soundly then.

I had for breakfast more paprika, and a sort of porridge of maize flour which they said was "mamaliga", and egg-plant stuffed with forcemeat, a very excellent dish, which they call "impletata". (Mem., get recipe for this also.)

I had to hurry breakfast, for the train started a little before eight, or rather it ought to have done so, for after rushing to the station at 7:30 I had to sit in the carriage for more than an hour before we began to move.

It seems to me that the further east you go the more unpunctual are the trains. What ought they to be in China?

All day long we seemed to dawdle through a country which was full of beauty of every kind. Sometimes we saw little towns or castles on the top of steep hills such as we see in old missals; sometimes we ran by rivers and streams which seemed from the wide stony margin on each side of them to be subject ot great floods. It takes a lot of water, and running strong, to sweep the outside edge of a river clear.

At every station there were groups of people, sometimes crowds, and in all sorts of attire. Some of them were just like the peasants at home or those I saw coming through France and Germany, with short jackets, and round hats, and home-made trousers; but others were very picturesque.

The women looked pretty, except when you got near them, but they were very clumsy about the waist. They had all full white sleeves of some kind or other, and most of them had big belts with a lot of strips of something fluttering from them like the dresses in a ballet, but of course there were petticoats under them.

The strangest figures we saw were the Slovaks, who were more barbarian than the rest, with their big cow-boy hats, great baggy dirty-white trousers, white linen shirts, and enormous heavy leather belts, nearly a foot wide, all studded over with brass nails. They wore high boots, with their trousers tucked into them, and had long black hair and heavy black moustaches. They are very picturesque, but do not look prepossessing. On the stage they would be set down at once as some old Oriental band of brigands. They are, however, I am told, very harmless and rather wanting in natural self-assertion.

It was on the dark side of twilight when we got to Bistritz, which is a very interesting old place. Being practically on the frontier--for the Borgo Pass leads from it into Bukovina-- it has had a very stormy existence, and it certainly shows marks of it. Fifty years ago a series of great fires took place, which made terrible havoc on five separate occasions. At the very beginning of the seventeenth century it underwent a siege of three weeks and lost 13,000 people, the casualties of war proper being assisted by famine and disease.

Count Dracula had directed me to go to the Golden Krone Hotel, which I found, to my great delight, to be thoroughly old-fashioned, for of course I wanted to see all I could of the ways of the country.

I was evidently expected, for when I got near the door I faced a cheery-looking elderly woman in the usual peasant dress-- white undergarment with a long double apron, front, and back, of coloured stuff fitting almost too tight for modesty. When I came close she bowed and said, "The Herr Englishman?"

"Yes," I said, "Jonathan Harker."

She smiled, and gave some message to an elderly man in white shirtsleeves, who had followed her to the door.

He went, but immediately returned with a letter:

"My friend.--Welcome to the Carpathians. I am anxiously expecting you. Sleep well tonight. At three tomorrow the diligence will start for Bukovina; a place on it is kept for you. At the Borgo Pass my carriage will await you and will bring you to me. I trust that your journey from London has been a happy one, and that you will enjoy your stay in my beautiful land.-- Your friend, Dracula."

Comments

[Draculabites]

Here we are, leaving Munich yet again. Bon voyage!

[Andrew Connell]

Yup, let's get after it! Paprika Hendl is on the menu tonight!! Enjoy the ride all!!

[Merowig]

Had yesterday Paprikahendl - was only ok - I have overcooked it this time :( .

Today "ready to eat" stuffed aubergine - didn't found the time for cooking today.

The Robber steak (aka Shashlik), Romanian white wine and Slivovitz on Friday and the chicken with Tokaj on Saturday will be better.

[David40]

This has probably been discussed in past years but shouldn't the first few paragraphs have been posted on May 1 or May 2? Harker is writing on May 3 but describing events that took place on May 1 or 2. Anyways great to see the Count back again :) !!

[David40]

I wonder why Harker chooses to begin his journal in Munich rather than England. I have a theory based on current events but curious what others think.

[Merowig]

The book was supposed to have 2 more chapters at the beginning (that's were Dracula's Guest is coming from in the end) including more adventures in Munich.
I believe the book was too long and thats the reason some of the content was removed/merged.

[Andrew Connell]

@David40 Re: Posting Dates - That's a good point that I don't believe has been discussed in previous years. As you know, there are a few points in the book where events happen on one day and then don't show up in a journal entry or letter until later. Also, for the sake of creating an interesting/coherent flow to the story, a good bit of the thing is out of order. Therefore, for the sake of deciding when to post the material to the blog (date of events vs. date of transcription), where possible it seemed best to go with the date of transcription (as, often times, actual date of event(s) isn't or can't be known).

It's certainly tricky in some places to know when to post an item to the blog - even more baffling to try and put dates to the maps and travels so those ended up being mostly estimates between know post dates.

Anyway, glad to see you back for another year!

[Andrew Connell]

@Merowig - good seeing you back again as well and glad to have a cooking partner on the adventure. I made Hendl again last night ( http://flic.kr/p/bSYo3r ) - I'm sorry yours was only so-so. I need to take up your tradition of doing the Shashlik as well! Also, our local wine shop just started carrying Slivovitz, so I added a shot-worth to my Hendl recipe and then naturally sipped a bit late in the evening. Cheers!

[David40]

@Merowig Actually I was referring to the fact that Swiss bank accounts have been in the news recently. I wondered if Harker passed through Switzerland between London and Munich to take care of financial details for the trip. Perhaps there are aspects of the finances of the trip he doesn't want to journal because he doesn't want Mina to know. Apparently the Swiss tradition of banking secrecy goes back a long way. There must be a reason why the itinerary between Munich and Bistritz is described in considerable detail but nothing at all is said of the itinerary between London and Munich.

[David40]

@Merowig And yes I was aware that there were a couple of earlier chapters but don't those earlier chapters describe the adventures in Munich--nothing about the trip from London to Munich?

[Merowig]

@David I don't believe he went to Switzerland as the schedule didn't permit it and also the route wouldn't had make sense

From the Notes, Draculas Guest and the book I came to following timetable:

23rd/24th London
Visiting the British Museum/Library

25th of April departing London

26th morning
arriving in Paris

27 April arriving in Munich
Hotels:
Auracher Hoff 9couldn't find the Hotel in Munich - but there in on in Herzohenaurach next to Nuernberg)
Marienbad (Hotel still exists)
Quatre Saison / Vier Jahreszeiten - Hotel still exists - is one of the very best in Munich

visiting the old pinacothek (a museum & the Deadhouse)
visiting the Opera – watching Fliegender Hollaender (The Flying Dutchman)

30. April
Hotel 4 Jahreszeiten
Muenchen

culinary: Brandy

1st May
Morning Glas Wein
Leaving Munich on 1st May – 8.35 pm

2nd May
Vienna
Arrive Vienna 02 May 06.46/07.46

Budapest
13.30 arrival

Kettenbruecke/chain bridge

(Széchenyi Lánchíd Bruecke ?)

Klausenburgh – arriving after Nightfall 22.35 ?

Hotels:
http://www.hoteltransilvaniacluj.ro/en/
http://www.royalclassic.ro/ - are PAPRICAS

Hotel Royale.

food:
paprika hendl
carafe of water during the night

03rd May Klausenburgh
Paprika Hendl + Mamaliga plus with forecemeat stuffed egg-plant

Bistritz
arrving afte r19.00/20.00

Golden Krone Hotel

04.05 Bistritz towrads Bukowina

Borgo
Pass
15 Uhr
"robber steak"--bits of bacon, onion, and beef, seasoned with red pepper, and strung on sticks, and roasted over the fire,

The wine was Golden Mediasch (should be a white wine)

Eve of St. George's Day (6th of May)
Slivovitz

05th of May
after midnigt
"excellent roast chicken. This, with some
cheese and a salad and a bottle of old tokay, of which I had two glasses,
as my supper."

07th May
cold breakfast laid out, with coffee kept
Hot –by the pot being placed on the earth

excellent supper

[Merowig]

@David And London was already a financial center at this time - this speaks as well against the theory i would say.

[Merowig]

@Andrew Your Paprika Hendl looks nice.
Still with rice instead of Mamaliga? ;)

Regarding Romanian beers I know Ursus, Ciuc and Timisoreana - all of them are nice (I prefer Ursus).
Regarding Belgian beer I can higly recommend Chimay! Leffe is also very good.

[Elizabeth]

"Mem, get recipe for Mina." Jonathan writes occasional little reminders to himself. Bram Stoker did the same thing in his journal (kept during the 1870s) which Dacre Stoker & I have just recently published.

[David40]

@Merowig Good point and the evidence does seem to be against there having been any kind of a stop in Switzerland. I still wonder a lot about how the logistics of a trip of this kind was arranged, though--especially given the apparently rather mysterious nature of the Count. As the calendar progresses and we learn more about the Count and the purpose of the journey I may have more to say.

@Elizabeth So Stoker apparently identifies w/Harker. Are you hinting that there may be some truth to Leslie Klinger's belief that Stoker actually had contact w/a real life Count Dracula?

[Elizabeth]

David: Yes, there are elements of Stoker in Harker, also in Van Helsing. But I would not read into this any acceptance on my part of Klinger's "thesis" or - if you prefer - his game. Keep in mind that he is first and foremost a Sherlock Holmes fan.

[Andrew Connell]

Ahh, Mamaliga! Great call! Will definitely prepare it for next year. Thanks Merowig!